Most travelers in northern Laos go to Luang Prabang. Some continue to Vang Vieng. Very few keep going north — and that's exactly why Nong Khiaw works.
Four hours northeast of Luang Prabang, the Nam Ou river cuts through a valley walled in by limestone cliffs that rise hundreds of meters straight out of the water. There's a single bridge in town. A handful of guesthouses. A few restaurants. The famous viewpoints are real hikes, not concrete staircases. Trekking from here passes through Khmu and Hmong villages that see few foreign visitors — not because they're hidden, but because most travelers never get this far.
What's changed: More guesthouses have opened in the last few years, and a handful of tour agencies in town now organize treks, kayaking, and overnight camping on the viewpoint peaks. The road in from Luang Prabang is paved (mostly). You can get reliable Wi-Fi at most accommodations now.
What hasn't: The scale of the karst. The way the morning mist sits in the valley until mid-morning. The fact that the Nam Ou is still a working river — fishing boats, families crossing to villages, water taxis upstream to Muang Ngoy. Nong Khiaw was heavily bombed during the Secret War, and the Pha Tok caves above town were shelters for the local population. Laos remains the most heavily bombed country per capita in history. Stay on marked trails.
Two days is enough to climb one viewpoint and kayak the river. Three lets you do the harder hikes and take a boat to Muang Ngoy. Four if you want to trek through the surrounding villages.